Thursday, October 12, 2006

Mini Surf Diary

Took a few days off work recently and headed off to North Devon.


Go to Putsborough early in the morning, but the waves are coming in such long sets and are fairly small, so I got a bit bored waiting...went to Croyde after lunch for some bigger waves. Whooped a bit after catching what seemed like a big wave, and didnt get in too much trouble with the locals. Snapped this nice little wave on the way into Woolacombe in the morning.


Head off to Saunton Sands to hook up with some other Brighton surfers and saw these bad boys rolling in.

I had a lot of fun at Saunton messing around on the right hand side that afternoon. They had a longboard competition on and it was cool watching the guys coming in on their last wave - they must have surfed for about half a mile!


Go back to Putsborough in the morning - traffic jam on the way there and realise it will be busy. This is why.

Really nice, steep clean waves, coming in sets - so you could paddle out in between. I caught one wave, and, realising how high up and how fast I was going, just thought *shit dont fall off*. Got completely trashed a few times naturally. Best waves I have seen before. Great fun. I went back over to Saunton to meet the Brighton crew but there wasnt much happening there. Went back to Putsborough but by that time it had started to get a bit messy. Still, I didnt want to miss anything so stayed out until early evening - shattered by then. Heres a nice shot of the view from Putsborough across to Woolacombe. My campsite was on the top of the hill in the centre.

Watched the sun go down that evening on the site. I love camping - when else can you justify eating chocolate for breakfast 'because its cold and you need the energy'. The weather was pretty much ok - it only rained *really* hard a few times - and a couple of those I was in the water anyway. Caught some of the biggest waves I ever seen so this was a great little break, and it was fun to hook up with other Brighton people down there. Heres the sunset.

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